Ratatouille

Dante Sauve is a chef at Rochelle Canteen. Here he reminisces on early memories with his grandparents, who live in Provence, France. He’s shared the magic with SYTI by offering a recipe for ratatouille as good as his grandma’s.

Ratatouille was an important part of my upbringing. My mum, who is Provencal, would cook it regularly at home.  As a child, I wasn’t overly fond of wet vegetables. But I still recall the warming French aromas that swam around the kitchen and the happy faces at the table. It was only mid way through my adolescence when I visited my grandparents - who live in a small coastal village next to Marseille - when I decided I loved this dish. 

All photographs by Dante

On the first morning of my stay, I woke up in the typical lethargic and slow teenage way. I got up and went into the kitchen to find Mami - in France your grandmother is always ‘Mami’ - preparing some ingredients that I did not pay much attention to. There was, as there always was, a fresh glass of juice squeezed that morning from the heap of oranges kept on the balcony. Orange juice down in one, now I was awake. As I was eating my tartine I peeked over at what Mami was doing. In a most relaxed fashion she was cutting vegetables. They were cut large and irregularly, yet somehow, magically, all the same size. I asked her what she was doing. “I’m making the ratatouille for lunch.” I remember thinking it was only a couple of vegetables cooked together, “‘It’s eight in the morning, why have you already started?” She told me that you must start cooking it early because ratatouille needs time.

At lunch, Papi - French grandfathers are always ‘Papi’- was back from the morning errands and we ate Ratatouille served with rice and tuna from the market. Delicious. Provence on a plate. Somehow so comforting. I had seconds and thirds. 

Good thing Mami made a large batch as the next day we would take the ratatouille out the fridge before lunch and eat it at room temperature.  It sounds a little odd but it is entirely delicious. It meant another day for the ingredients to get to know each other better and lifted an already beautifully aromatic dish to a sweet, harmonious marriage of vegetables. 

The recipe consists of only five vegetables - Aubergine, Courgettes, Peppers, Onions and Tomatoes - paired with garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. I am truly seduced by their transformation into such a delicious dish. No meat, no butter and no need for anything else. It stands by itself.

Recipe 

Makes a large batch. Enough for 4 and then lunch the next day.

Ingredients:

2 Large Aubergines

3 Courgettes 

3 Large Red peppers

3 Red onions 

3/4 Tomatoes (depending on size)

4 Garlic Cloves

A Bundle of Thyme

Olive Oil 

Cut the courgettes, aubergine and peppers into large, even chunks. Make sure you keep each vegetable separate from one another. Salt them generously and leave for half an hour. We are aiming to draw out water from the vegetables. This will allow them to stay firm and keep their shape whilst breaking down their fibres so flavour can get in. In the meantime we can peel the tomatoes. Boil some water and cut a cross into the bottom. Once your water is boiled, cover the tomatoes completely and leave for 45 seconds to 1 minute. Take your tomatoes out and with a small knife peel the skin using your cross as a starting point. Now cut the tomatoes into the same size chunks as the rest of your vegetables. Peel the onions and cut into large chunks. Peel and slice your garlic. 

Get a large heavy bottom pot and add a good amount of olive oil. Bring to a searing heat and add your first set of vegetables, salt and pepper lightly. We are looking to seal the vegetables and brown them a little all over. Remove from the pot and repeat the process with the remaining sets of vegetables, one bunch at a time, except the onions. You will need to add more olive oil each time as these vegetables really absorb liquid.

Once all your vegetables have seen the pot, turn down the heat, add more olive oil and toast the garlic and thyme briefly before adding the onions. Gently sweat your onions and garlic until they start to become translucent. At this point add back the rest of the vegetables, a small pinch of salt and pepper, and a good glug of olive oil. ‘Don’t be scared of Olive oil’ my Papi would say. 

Give your vegetables a good mix and cover with a lid. Let it cook at a low slow gentle heat for up to 2 hours or more if need be. Give them a stir every 20 minutes. The vegetables must be tender, wet and almost falling apart. If you feel your ratatouille isn’t wet enough add a touch of water to guide them along. Water is a cook's best friend.

Check for a last season of salt, pepper and olive oil. Et Voila.